{"id":4587,"date":"2022-10-06T09:08:44","date_gmt":"2022-10-06T07:08:44","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.lesmissives.fr\/?p=4587"},"modified":"2022-10-06T09:08:45","modified_gmt":"2022-10-06T07:08:45","slug":"la-mode-est-politique-le-lexique-inclusif-de-melody-thomas-qui-detricote-nos-vestiaires","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.lesmissives.fr\/index.php\/2022\/10\/06\/la-mode-est-politique-le-lexique-inclusif-de-melody-thomas-qui-detricote-nos-vestiaires\/","title":{"rendered":"La mode est politique : le lexique inclusif de M\u00e9lody Thomas qui d\u00e9tricote nos vestiaires"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Et si l\u2019habit faisait le moine ? Alors que la Fashion Week bat son plein, c\u2019est le moment propice pour d\u00e9crypter le monde de la mode et les codes qui le r\u00e9gissent. Dans ce lexique inclusif (\u00e9d. Les Insolentes), la journaliste mode M\u00e9lody Thomas livre, sous sa plume aiguis\u00e9e, des analyses \u00e9difiantes et un regard critique sur les mouvements et tendances qui d\u00e9finissent la mode d’aujourd’hui.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Dans les cercles f\u00e9ministes, il est depuis longtemps \u00e9tabli que l\u2019intime est politique. Mais qu\u2019en est-il de la mode ? Si cette industrie peut para\u00eetre frivole et superficielle pour certain\u00b7e\u00b7s, M\u00e9lody Thomas la d\u00e9finit plut\u00f4t comme un \u00ab miroir \u00bb ou une \u00ab \u00e9ponge \u00bb qui \u00ab refl\u00e8te autant qu’elle absorbe les changements, petits et grands, qui ont cours dans nos soci\u00e9t\u00e9s \u00bb. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ainsi, une description du mythique sac Birkin devient l’occasion d’aborder des questions de luttes de classe ainsi que le deux poids, deux mesures du traitement m\u00e9diatique des femmes noires. Pourquoi quand la rappeuse Cardi B pose devant sa collection de Birkin on l’accuse de faire \u00ab baisser la valeur \u00bb des sacs ? Ou alors, pourquoi la robe de C\u00e9cile Duflot lui a-t-elle valu d’\u00eatre siffl\u00e9e en pleine s\u00e9ance de l’Assembl\u00e9e nationale ? Et pourquoi les femmes vont-elles syst\u00e9matiquement \u00eatre d\u00e9crites par des termes p\u00e9joratifs tels que fashion victim<\/em> ou basic bitch<\/em>, alors qu’un homme branch\u00e9 est un hypebeast<\/em> (\u00ab b\u00eate de tendances \u00bb) ? Dans son premier livre, M\u00e9lody Thomas capture avec justesse les enjeux actuels de cette industrie, tout en ouvrant des champs de r\u00e9flexion habituellement peu trouvables dans les ouvrages consacr\u00e9s \u00e0 la mode.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ce lexique fournit les outils n\u00e9cessaires pour mieux saisir les codes de ce milieu, car justement, la mode parle de la soci\u00e9t\u00e9 dans laquelle nous vivons. Les v\u00eatements peuvent inclure, tout comme ils peuvent exclure. La journaliste mode soutient que :<\/p>\n\n\n\n

 \u00ab […] avoir le droit de s’habiller comme on l’entend, d’exprimer par le v\u00eatement qui l’on est, c’est affirmer son ind\u00e9pendance. C’est dire que l’on peut exister et d\u00e9finir ses propres fronti\u00e8res. Et, g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement, cela ne se fait pas sans tumulte, surtout lorsque l’on est une femme et\/ou une personne minoris\u00e9e. \u00bb <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

L’autrice r\u00e9ussit par ailleurs le pari de combler le manque de contextualisation d’une industrie qui se politise pourtant de plus en plus. Longtemps consid\u00e9r\u00e9 comme le monde du para\u00eetre seul, il n’est plus rare que les magazines et podiums deviennent des lieux o\u00f9 des enjeux politiques se cristallisent, que ce soit les marques Tom Ford et Marc Jacobs qui refusent l’acc\u00e8s \u00e0 leur collection \u00e0 l’ex-Premi\u00e8re dame Melania Trump, ou le\u00b7a mannequin Ayesha Tan-Jones qui brandit le message \u00ab Mental health is not fashion<\/em><\/a> \u00bb, lors d’un d\u00e9fil\u00e9 Gucci.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dans ce lexique didactique et illustr\u00e9, se c\u00f4toient 27 termes d\u00e9cortiquant des notions reli\u00e9es au monde de la mode, qui sont analys\u00e9es sous le prisme d’anecdotes personnelles, ainsi que de concepts sociologiques et r\u00e9f\u00e9rences historiques fouill\u00e9es. Les diverses entr\u00e9es (\u00ab Appropriation culturelle \u00bb, \u00ab Camel toe \u00bb, \u00ab \u00c2gisme \u00bb, \u00ab Black Models Matter<\/em> \u00bb, \u00ab Maternit\u00e9 \u00bb…) proposent une approche transversale r\u00e9ussie qui s’adresse tout autant aux novices qu’aux aficionados <\/em>de la mode. Ce passionnant recueil d’essais courts livre un d\u00e9cryptage \u00e9clairant qui permet d’affirmer sans aucun doute que oui, la mode est d\u00e9finitivement politique.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Et si l\u2019habit faisait le moine ? Alors que la Fashion Week bat son plein, c\u2019est le moment propice pour d\u00e9crypter le monde de la mode et les codes qui le r\u00e9gissent. Dans ce lexique inclusif (\u00e9d. Les Insolentes), la journaliste mode M\u00e9lody Thomas livre, sous sa plume aiguis\u00e9e, des analyses \u00e9difiantes et un regard […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":20,"featured_media":4589,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4587","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-essais-recents","has-thumbnail"],"yoast_head":"\nLa mode est politique : le lexique inclusif de M\u00e9lody Thomas qui d\u00e9tricote nos vestiaires - Missives<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.lesmissives.fr\/index.php\/2022\/10\/06\/la-mode-est-politique-le-lexique-inclusif-de-melody-thomas-qui-detricote-nos-vestiaires\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"La mode est politique : le lexique inclusif de M\u00e9lody Thomas qui d\u00e9tricote nos vestiaires - Missives\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Et si l\u2019habit faisait le moine ? Alors que la Fashion Week bat son plein, c\u2019est le moment propice pour d\u00e9crypter le monde de la mode et les codes qui le r\u00e9gissent. Dans ce lexique inclusif (\u00e9d. 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