{"id":1237,"date":"2019-02-26T20:30:20","date_gmt":"2019-02-26T19:30:20","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.lesmissives.fr\/?p=1237"},"modified":"2019-04-10T22:29:31","modified_gmt":"2019-04-10T20:29:31","slug":"cheffes-lanti-guide-michelin-militant-allechant-et-100-feminin","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.lesmissives.fr\/index.php\/2019\/02\/26\/cheffes-lanti-guide-michelin-militant-allechant-et-100-feminin\/","title":{"rendered":"Cheffes, l\u2019anti-guide Michelin militant, all\u00e9chant et 100 % f\u00e9minin"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"\"
(couverture du livre\/Chiho Kanzaki en cuisine)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sign\u00e9 des autrices Est\u00e9relle Payany, journaliste et \u00e9crivaine culinaire, et V\u00e9rane Fr\u00e9diani, sc\u00e9nariste et documentariste, et publi\u00e9 aux \u00e9ditions Nouriturfu \u2013 chez qui est aussi paru Faiminisme<\/a> \u2013 Quand le sexisme passe \u00e0 table<\/em>, de Nora Bouazzouni \u2013, l’ouvrage Cheffes<\/em> est \u00e0 la crois\u00e9e entre guide culinaire pratique, avec plus de 550 adresses, et manifeste f\u00e9ministe. Le terme \u201cchef\u201d, elles se le r\u00e9approprient ici au f\u00e9minin, et le passent au pluriel, pour embrasser des r\u00e9alit\u00e9s multiples, mais toujours avec le m\u00eame leitmotiv : bienveillance, sororit\u00e9 et fiert\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le monde de la gastronomie ne brille pas par son ouverture et peu de femmes tirent leur \u00e9pingle du jeu dans cette profession encore tr\u00e8s masculine. Des concours et grands guides, qu\u2019il s\u2019agisse du Michelin ou du 50 Best, qui d\u00e9cerne le controvers\u00e9 \u201dprix de la femme cheffe de l\u2019ann\u00e9e\u201d, aux grandes cuisines, les cheffes sont souvent invisibilis\u00e9es, manquent cruellement de reconnaissance ou ont une place encore \u00e0 part. D\u00e8s l’introduction, les autrices soulignent une r\u00e9alit\u00e9 d\u00e9rangeante : sur 621 \u00e9toil\u00e9s en France en 2018, moins de 20 \u00e9tablissements avaient une cheffe \u00e0 la t\u00eate d’une brigade. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Elles reviennent \u00e9galement sur la dichotomie paradoxale entre femme en cuisine dans les m\u00e9nages et femme en cuisine dans la restauration : dans une soci\u00e9t\u00e9 patriarcale, il serait \u201cnaturel\u201d pour une femme de faire \u00e0 manger, de tenir le r\u00f4le de \u201cm\u00e8re nourrici\u00e8re\u201d, la nourriture ayant cette dimension f\u00e9d\u00e9ratrice, r\u00e9confortante, tandis que la cuisine en tant que profession, et par extension l\u2019excellence de la haute gastronomie, serait un monde r\u00e9serv\u00e9 aux hommes. \u00c0 bon escient, le guide rappelle que savoir cuisiner n\u2019est pas inn\u00e9 chez les femmes et que les cheffes ont tout autant de m\u00e9rite, si ce n’est plus, que leurs homologues masculins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Car ce guide tend justement \u00e0 d\u00e9montrer que les femmes en cuisine ne sont pas une minorit\u00e9 et qu\u2019elles sont nombreuses, malgr\u00e9 leur manque de m\u00e9diatisation, \u00e0 exercer ce m\u00e9tier. Pour ce faire, les autrices ont eu une approche 2.0 puisqu’elles ont lanc\u00e9 un appel sur les r\u00e9seaux sociaux, en plus de leurs recherches personnelles, pour d\u00e9nicher des femmes \u201cqui font la diff\u00e9rence\u201d aux fourneaux d’\u00e9tablissements aux quatre coins de l’Hexagone et donner un coup de projecteur sur leur cuisine, leur histoire. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Loin d’\u00eatre parisiano-centr\u00e9, ce qui est appr\u00e9ciable, le guide propose ainsi une liste par r\u00e9gion des meilleurs restaurants tenus par des femmes, mais aussi des portraits de cheffes qui illustrent la pluralit\u00e9 des profils et des approches culinaires. Entre t\u00e9moignages de figures f\u00e9minines, sous l’\u00e9gide de la grande cheffe Anne-Sophie Pic, qui signe une pr\u00e9face \u00e9mouvante sur son cheminement en tant que femme dans la haute gastronomie et son rapport \u00e0 ses pairs masculins, et r\u00e9pertoire d’adresses qui sortent des sentiers battus, \u00e0 d\u00e9couvrir partout en France, Cheffes<\/em> participe de ce mouvement n\u00e9cessaire de mise en lumi\u00e8re et revalorisation du travail des femmes, par des femmes. Comme l’\u00e9crivent si bien Est\u00e9relle Payany et V\u00e9rane Fr\u00e9diani : \u201cCette solidarit\u00e9 f\u00e9minine, v\u00e9ritable sororit\u00e9, fait du bien et est particuli\u00e8rement efficace. La r\u00e9volution ne se fera que toutes ensemble.\u201d<\/em> Un livre qui donne la banane, \u00e0 d\u00e9vorer sans attendre.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Sign\u00e9 des autrices Est\u00e9relle Payany, journaliste et \u00e9crivaine culinaire, et V\u00e9rane Fr\u00e9diani, sc\u00e9nariste et documentariste, et publi\u00e9 aux \u00e9ditions Nouriturfu \u2013 chez qui est aussi paru Faiminisme \u2013 Quand le sexisme passe \u00e0 table, de Nora Bouazzouni \u2013, l’ouvrage Cheffes est \u00e0 la crois\u00e9e entre guide culinaire pratique, avec plus de 550 adresses, et manifeste f\u00e9ministe. Le terme […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":1239,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5,10],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1237","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-essais-recents","category-livrepratique","has-thumbnail"],"yoast_head":"\nCheffes, l\u2019anti-guide Michelin militant, all\u00e9chant et 100 % f\u00e9minin - Missives<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.lesmissives.fr\/index.php\/2019\/02\/26\/cheffes-lanti-guide-michelin-militant-allechant-et-100-feminin\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Cheffes, l\u2019anti-guide Michelin militant, all\u00e9chant et 100 % f\u00e9minin\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Sign\u00e9 des autrices Est\u00e9relle Payany, journaliste et \u00e9crivaine culinaire, et V\u00e9rane Fr\u00e9diani, sc\u00e9nariste et documentariste, et publi\u00e9 aux \u00e9ditions Nouriturfu \u2013 chez qui est aussi paru Faiminisme \u2013 Quand le sexisme passe \u00e0 table, de Nora Bouazzouni \u2013, l’ouvrage Cheffes est \u00e0 la crois\u00e9e entre guide culinaire pratique, avec plus de 550 adresses, et manifeste f\u00e9ministe. 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